Tuesday, December 18, 2012

A Winter Day at Bushwhack

Life is Beautiful
Photo Credit: Jon Alexander
This was my second visit to Bushwhack, a small (or big by Maryland standards) granite and quartzite-banded ridge in Frederick, MD. Predominantly known as a toprope area with some moderate trad routes, it has recently noticed bouldering development and a resurgence of popularity. On my last visit, I was accompanied by my dad and my friend, Mark P. With the little climbing footage my dad took, I crudely made a short video you can watch Here.

Realizing how good the climbing was and how much potential it had for new lines, I new I had to go back. As soon as I could. Luckily, this past Saturday I was able to make it out again with my friend and local climbing badass, Robin Close (check out his blog robinclose.blogspot.com)

It was precisely 9:02 as my dad and I arrived the Earth Treks in Columbia, (give or take a few minutes, my phone doesn't keep time well), and were greeted by Robin at his car. After talking for a few minutes my dad took off and Robin and I were on our way. In the hour and ten minutes it took to get to Bushwhack, we conversed about what we wanted to do for the day. Having made plans already with Jeff and a group of climbers from northern Virginia, Robin wanted to try the high and beautiful line (living up to it's name) Life is Beautiful, knowing we would have enough pads to climb it with a lessened risk of injury. Another problem he wanted to try was Flipping the Bird, a climb he had previously done from the stand but wanted to do from the sit which probably adds a grade and a sick double kneebar sequence.

We met Jeff at the start of the approach and walked excitedly towards Life is Beautiful, the sun finally starting to shine through the clouds. As we warmed up, the group from northern Virgina came walking in and offered to let us barrow their a few of their pads to make the landing even more bomber. SWEET. The sun now fully out warming the rock, I put my shoes on as fast as I could and tried the problem, getting it on my third try and saying honestly as I hit the last hold "I nearly just crapped my pants." at the top. Robin and Jeff wimped out...

Life is Beautiful
Photo Credit: Jon Alexander
Great problem, one of the most aesthetic problems at bushwhack.

Next we decided to go try the sit start to tourette's razor, but it was A LOT harder than I had thought and as cool as it would be to see the whole line go, adding the sit probably detracts from the quality of the line. Jeff got super close to this pretty cool, sorta heinous, traverse into the start.

After spending about 30 minutes there we packed up camp and decided to go to try Flipping the Bird just around the corner. I climbed past the crux, a hard deadpoint from a crimpy rail into a sloping seam, in a few tries but fell on the very last move. Sort of bummed, but I will definitely be back for that one.

We then hiked around and came to the butterbeer slab and Robin, the slab-master, wanted to try the blank face right next to it. It had a horrible tree/ pit kind of landing. Of course. Jeff and I didn't even shoe up for this one. Robin gave it a  few good burns, but decided his life was more important than the glorious send... Right around the corner I bouldered maybe a 20 foot 5.9, (with that being said, it was probably a 15 foot 5.6) which filled my highball hunger for the day.

It was almost four in the afternoon, almost time to go, so the last batch of problems we tried were on our way back to the car - the atonement boulder. Jeff was super close on this one and I'm sure he would have sent it if he hadn't had a time crunch. Robin and I both sent thinking it was around a V5. Bitterness and Shadows, the short slab to the right of atonement took significantly longer for me, even though it was probably only a V2. Gosh I am terrible at slab... Robin started doing laps on it (he says because it was fun but I really think they were just spite sends)...

Robin on Atonement
It was a pretty fun trip, and I hope to be back soon!!!

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

The Acre Parte Dos

It's been a funky few months, filled with leaps and bounds climbing wise. Today was the first day I climbed outdoors in a long while and it was long overdue! PSYCHED!

I made my second trip to The Acre, a ridge of amazing rock within walking distance of the more popular area, Bushwhack Rock. My first trip was about a month ago with Vince, Robin and his family. Since Robin is a large contributor in the scene of the Maryland climbing it was like going out with a guide who knew all the boulder problems and their general grades.

This time was entirely different...

Only my dad and I went this time, besides a few GPS coordinates Robin had sent me over The Facebook and a few videos I had watched of some problems there, we were all on our own (I was surprised we didn't get lost...). Unaware of most established problems and their grades freed us to do anything that we thought looked cool. We were just there to play on the rocks, regardless of the grade, and I think that's how climbing should be (of course there is always a time to push your limits and grades help to narrow down the search). It turns out "cool" problems are high...


About 20 feet high... Unfortunately, my camera ran out of battery right as we arrived so this was the only climb we got pictures of. Bummer Bummer Bummer. My dad managed to climb this one as well, topping out left instead taking the full height and going straight up like I did...

We then continued on the ridge and did a few more high problems and possibly the FA of a rig with a sketchy top out to the right of Intro to Belly Dancing. Does anyone know if it's been climbed already? The crux is this classic mantle at the top with the incredibly rare "If I blow this I get a butt full of tree stump" feeling. Perfection. My dad then wiggled his way up the fun Intro to Bellydancing and ate a sandwich while I worked on the problem just to the other side of that wall with a dyno variation I'd seen in a video (the name of the climb escapes me) until I unluckily split a fingertip on the crimpy start. Of course neither of us had brought tape so I promptly put chalk on it to stop the bleeding and continued to climb. Just around the corner I flashed this problem that's movement was really cool and had this awesome sloping pinch that unfortunately was part of a wobbling-loose flake and had to be avoided.

After that, we did a few more highballs, one of which had a gnarly descent (more like a chossy V2 down-climb while you waged battle with an army of dead trees pulled on moving flakes), we decided to pack up shop and head back home. On our way out, we came across the gem of a project that Robin had saved for me and showed me on my first trip. While contemplating whether to try it or not I noticed that a flake on the top was gone, leaving a large crystal band more positive than what was there before. I don't know if someone did it on purpose or not but when Robin or I tried it a few weeks ago, it hadn't moved or even sounded like it would come off, which is strange. However this probably only made it more classic in the end so no worries! I didn't try it again though, the slash on my fingertip would not have held up on the small crystal crimps...

Good news is I'll be back on Friday again with my friend and fellow crusher, Mark!! Super psyched!

Until then, as Mr. Spock would say if he climbed, Send Hard and Prosper.

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Autumn Update

     Throughout this fall, we have had some great opportunities to get outside and climb. These days have been accompanied by some great weather and optimal rock conditions. My partner, Kerry, and I took advantage of a past three day weekends to take a trips to the New. Like I said previously, the weather was great; we encountered highs in the mid-forties, overnight lows in the mid-thirties, and overcast skies. We couldn't have asked for anything better!

     Our first day we figured we should try something new, so we went to the Meadow River and decided to hit up Area 51. The drive was fairly distant, along this old winding narrow road where we had to cross over --according the the guidebook-- an old "dilapidated train trussel." We were surprisingly welcomed by a short, five minute approach to the base of this tall, steep, white wall. We had one climb in mind, Made in The Shade, a four-star 12d in which Kerry sent quickly in two tries, and I made shorty after.

     Since the weekend we picked happened to be part of Bridge Day-- an annual tradition where BASE Jumpers from all over come to legally jump off the 900+ ft. New River Bridge-- we decided to stay on the northern part of the gorge since the bridge would be closed all day. We went to Endless Wall and warmed up on this classic 100 ft. four-star 11b, Discombobulated. Shortly after this we quickly parted directions and found two separate projects to work, Pocket Route and Dial 911, two classic, four-star 13a's. After Kerry set up her draws on Pocket Route, I hopped on Dial 911, flailing to the chains with beta from a guy we met the previous day. I figured this route would never go after this lousy first attempt. We returned on our third, and final day to hopefully cleanup what we had started. Although Kerry decided to clean her gear and save this route for next time I felt determined to give Dial 911 a final redpoint burn. I quickly cruised the easy beginning thirty feet and passed the first hard move. I continued past the middle crimping section making an occasional noise to reach the first crux where some powerful moves on these tiny delicate crimps through a dihedral mark a large deadpoint to a mailbox slot. I figured if I can make this low-percentage move then I might be able to man-up and finish through the upper crux. Well sure enough I stuck the slot and continued to this "halleluiah" rest jug. After regaining as much juice as I could I ran at the last crux move with everything I had. Making some ridiculous noises, I stuck the final moves and clipped the chains in relief.

I am currently planning for my upcoming trip to the Red River Gorge over Thanksgiving break and am praying for good weather. Though Kerry, my usual partner, won't be accompanying me, she will be crushing at the Pan-American Championships in Chile along with three of our other teammates, Kayla, Brandon, and Claire. Good-luck to you guys and represent!!!

Sunday, September 30, 2012

New River Gorge Trip Sept.

 Kerry on Tobacco Road- 5.12b

So it's taken a while to post this, probably due to the increasing load of schoolwork (no that's a lie), or just pure laziness, but i think I'm gonna write about my most recent trip to the New River Gorge of West Virginia.
     My partner Kerry, and I left school Friday with high hopes and full Psyche as we began on our fairly short, five hour drive through the familiar, winding roads of Western Maryland and into West Virginia.
     We arrived at Chestnut Creek campground around 9:00 p.m. just in time to pitch tents in the dark. We decided to eat dinner at an Ihop about an hour prior to our arrival, so we didn't have to cook when we got there (a great idea! Great send fuel).
     Our first day was spent in Summersvile at the Coliseum, a beautiful overhanging wall of white rock overlooking the lake. Some classic routes we sent were Tobacco Road- 5.12b  and Reckless Abandoned- 5.12a. We also hopped on Apollo Reed, said the be one of the best 13's east of the Mississippi, which I fell at the redpoint crux at the 8th bolt. It was my second, and best attempt at the route ever. I was really psyched to return in the future and hopefully send. Along with the climbing, our first of three injuries occurred today where a few of the younger kids we were with, were throwing rocks into the lake and one of them struck one of the kids in the head. He was taked to the hospital and received two staples.
     The Endless Wall was in our sights for our second day. We focused on the Honeymooners and Snakebutress areas. I worked this super classic route, Jesus and Tequila, and also managed a flash of Sacrilege, another classic 5.12b. The Endless wall is a beautiful wall that sits atop the New River, and as the name hints, its endless!  Now, the second and third injuries happened today. One of the younger girls fell on the approach in and catching herself on her hands caused her to break her right wrist. She was also taken to the ER and was put into a cast. And last and definitely least, when backing into the parking space I side-swiped a tree with the front right quarter panel above the wheel and scuffed it up(unnoticeable after a brief buffing and whacking the two panels back together).
     Our last day was a half day of climbing due to the fact that we had school the next day and we needed to travel. We went to Kaymoor in Fayetteville and spent our time in The Hole. Super steep powerful climbing that even Kerry, a hardcore crimp enthusiast, was dying to climb. I worked Lactic Acid Bath a 12d and got 2 bolts higher than my previous burn last season. A lot of power-endurance will be necessary to redpoint this monster.  Kerry also onsighted this super sandbagged 12b, Yowsah. I wish I would've had time to get on that too.

So anyways, that was our trip and I'm super psyched to return and send some projects.
-Happy sending

Monday, September 10, 2012

Shouldn't I be climbing right now?

I hate school. I hate being in it. And waking up for it. I hate homework. I hate teachers who assign homework. I hate that it’s getting in the way of, not only my climbing, but also the enjoyment of the outdoors and the beautiful weather we've had the past few days. I want to set up my hammock under a tree and sway in the 70 degree breeze. I want to climb. Outdoors. I want to travel. Explore. I want to climb a tree. And sleep under the stars. But here I am. On my deck. Laying on a crash pad. Doing my worthless homework. I don't care about Algebra 2, nor does it care about me. Ten years from now, I doubt I will miss it. And after taking ten years of English, I can say we're more than just friends. I don't need to know what people in Egypt were thinking in 600 B.C. I need to care about the future. And then I want to climb.... More.

That's where I am right now. Ticked off at the world with a headache.

Anyways, here's what has been happening in my life on the past few days:

Climbing team tryouts. They were actually a lot of fun, Evan and I lounged under the system board at Columbia, pulled some hard moves on plastic, and did our homework (no surprise there). It was a super laid back climbing day but we made up some interesting problems that I liked. Kayla Lieuw, a world-class climber and equally amazing cupcake baker, brought in a few dozen tiramisu cupcakes (probably the highlight of the night). In the end the laughs were overly proportional to the amount of climbing and I'd have it no other way.

Disc golfing. Aka the 21st best thing in my world - before long showers but after climbing, Christmas mornings, sleeping, autumn, ect... Anyways, it was a lot of fun! Evan, Papa Smail, Harris, Mike, and I went to some course in Columbia and I somehow managed to hit every single tree on that course with my frisbee... Hopefully I will be able to go again soon (and not lose by a ton this time...)

Music. The new Mumford and Sons album come out in 13 days and I'm beyond PSYCHED!!! If you haven't listened to them, you seriously should. If you don't like them, don't talk to me... Also, I recently listened to Of Monsters and Men for the first time and they are awesome! Of course, my sense of music is definitely a little weird... Right now, besides those two bands, I'm really diggin' the Black Keys, The Shins, The Punch Brothers, Jose Gonzalez, The Broken Bells, and CCR. Also, if you didn't know, I am a mediocre piano player. I just started learning Moonlight Sonata (the first movement) and its soo cool! Really creepy and its minor tonality makes it perfect for Halloween coming up next month!

Climbing wise I really happy, besides wishing I could do it more often. Lately, I've felt like a five-year-old boy with ADHD while I'm at the gym and am so psyched to be so stoked to climb again, it's huge. I haven't felt this way towards the sport since when I had just started. I've continued leading and while still uncomfortable with falling, that feeling is starting to go away which is nice. I still suck at clipping though, and apparently I backstep like it’s nobody's business...

In related news, I HAVE A LONG WEEKEND (which is #11 on the list of things that make me happy). Hopefully I will be able to get out to Bushwhack Rocks, Sykesville, or even somewhere in Pennsylvania this weekend and do some outdoor gnarr climbin'! Bushwhack looks cool and I want go soooooooooo badly!

Dan M. on the Levitation Boulder - Courtesy of Robin Close's Awesome Blog.

To Be Continued...

Saturday, August 25, 2012

A Few Thoughts from Tonight

Today while eating dinner I took a bite from a tart red apple, a staple for my family's meals during the autumn and winter seasons, and with that sour taste and the already yellowing leaves outside it's only a matter of time before fall comes along in full force; bringing with it cool temperatures perfect for climbing. And school. Starting for me in three two days and my first AP class awaiting, I feel that certain last-day-before-school-dreading. On top of that, once I finish the the small booklet of forms and tax garbage Scott C. handed me; I'll be off to some mild training followed by my first job, working at the best climbing gym in the country Earth Treks Climbing Centers which is arguably also my home.

Of course, it's not that I'm stressed out about all of this stuff that's happening, it's that I'm worried it will get in the way of my climbing during the prime seasons of the year. Earth Treks Climbing Team starts in a few months so I'll be training 3-4 days a week while trying to get out to local Maryland and Pennsylvanian crags on the weekends. I'm just not sure that will be able to happen with an increased workload and job responsibilities.

One thing I'm REALLY PSYCHED on though is the prospects of the Team taking a winter trip to Hueco Tanks, something I've wanted to do since I ever started climbing! Also there is a good chance of going out to Joe's Valley for a week during Spring Break and meeting a friend - a new resident to SLC -Mr. Alex LeBlanc. Potential outdoor trips like these really get me pumped to train more so than any competition ever could... Though I'm also excited to compete this up coming bouldering, after placing 23rd in last year's Youth ABS Nationals, and after that maybe the Youth SCS Nationals tooo?

Giving a burn on Black Lung V13
Roping. I've been climbing for two years now and always have been afraid of lead climbing - the falling, the fear of heights, the pumped feeling - everything! Because of that, I've been focused on bouldering the whole time. Recently though, I want to give leading another try. So far I'm getting more comfortable with falling, the heights, and, after getting to the top of a hard route, the pumped feeling is almost rewarding. Hopefully trips to the New and Red River Gorges ensue, those places look B-E-A-UTIFULLL!
Anyways, I thought it would be a good time for me to set personal climbing goals for the next year because I'm not too sure if I'll have time until this time next year!
Climb V12/13 by this time one year from now.
Problems I want to do:
Joe's Valley-
Angler V2
Chips V7
Ghost King V11
Jitterbug Perfume V11
Mass Hysteria V11
Black Lung V13
Blackout V13
Hueco Tanks-
1. Lessen the fear of falling.
2. Go to the Red and the New.
3. Climb 12d/13a by this time next year.

All in all I think it's going to be a great year! It's like Alex Lowe said:
"The best climber in the world is the one who's having the most fun!"

Thursday, August 23, 2012

A Different Kind of Climbing

The back seat of my truck turned into the stage for some pretty deep conversation during our nine hour journey to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. My friend Kerry and I got going on our opinions about the sport of climbing, and how this adverse lifestyle can differ amongst its participants.

Corey crushing Convicted, 5.13a, at the Motherlode, Red River Gorge Kentucky 

I was recently reading an Internet article, which expressed the opinions of outdoor climbers about indoor climbers. Because this article was relevant to our discussion, I passed it back to Kerry, who became instantly enraged after reading these arrogant, entitled climbers' opinions. They stated simply, that those who don’t climb on real rock aren't real rock climbers.

Do I agree with this statement?

 Absolutely not! Some of us aren’t as fortunate as others to live close to crags other than the local bouldering cave down on Fleet St., but does that mean we don’t deserve to be "legitimate" rock climbers? I believe that just because all of us "gym rats" can't afford to climb regularly at an outdoor scene doesn't mean we should be discredited as real rock climbers.

But I don’t completely disagree with this statement either.

Climbing is meant to be a natural relationship between the climber and rock. It is impossible to imitate this bond artificially in a gym, on plastic holds, but does that mean it shouldn’t be done? No. The climbing scene would be a fraction of its present-day size without these up and coming young guns, and the development of the sport would get closer and closer to becoming non-existent. Therefore I believe that the indoor scene should come second to the “real deal”, but not become disregarded entirely. I mean outdoor routes are out there for hundreds of thousands of years and for a few minutes, you can be a part of them —a part of the landscape— compared to an indoor problem which once it's taken down it will likely be forgotten forever. Committed indoor climbers do what they can to make it out, but sometimes this becomes virtually impossible. Ignorant outdoor climbers need to realize that most people don’t live on KY 11, for example, and can’t be right outside the gates of world-class climbing.

Climbing is what you make it, and if you're doing it for the right reasons, it doesn't matter what others think. You climb for yourself, and nobody else.

Climbing Kinship

Spring break, Thanksgiving break, Summer - no matter which school break it is, it's always spent climbing. All extraneous time is spent climbing for that matter. Our devotion to this lifestyle can only be described as an complex obsession most "ground walkers" can't even comprehend.

We are undeniably a different breed of  people.

The past couple trips I've taken to the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, have definitely shed light on the outdoor climber breed; especially since I'm always around the average indoor climber.
 As soon as you step outside into that dirtbagger paradise, you notice a change in the type of people . The climbers' appearances, morals, ethics, and lifestyle all change. Everything is based generally around respect. I know this sounds cliche, but most climbers tend to operate on the golden rule more-so than others.

Treat others the way you would like to be treated.

One early morning I checked my phone and saw it was in desperate need of a charge.  I walked up to Miguel's and plugged it in at a table that conveniently had a plug overhead.  Leaving it there, I had faith no one would steal it while I cooked breakfast and packed gear. Before I knew it, we were all ready for the day of climbing, and I didn't even think twice about my phone charging in the restaurant. After ten long hours of sandstone sending (wow, that's a tongue twister), I remembered my phone, still charging, and frantically went to go check on it. It was still there, making me think... climbers are awesome. You know as well as I do that had you done the same in school during your first period class , it would be long gone before your second period late bell even rang.

The next day I encountered a similar scenario except the roles were switched. I ran across a line with brand-new shiny Petzl Spirits left on the hangars. I just figured someone was working the route and I moved on, thinking to myself, anyone could get up there and take the gear, but you don't. Plain as day. I guess what I'm stabbing at is that climbers are, in fact, awesome and we're all a big family; a community of people sharing more than just rocks, a friendship. A climbing kinship.

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Squamish Special

A dense tree canopy above the bouldering keeps out all but the most determined sun rays and, during heavy rain, a dry piece of stone can always be found.

Squamish, British Columbia.


My parents and I drove into the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground, our brand-spankin'-new rental car, a Chevy Impala, immediately sticking out of place in the beat-up van and camper dominated parking lot. We quickly unpacked my gear, hauling it to the campsite a friend of mine, Robin C., had reserved. Hastily said good-byes ensued, and after handing me $75 my parents were off, not to be seen for another week...

Later that evening the rest of the group - Mike R., Mike B., Becca, and Jsun - arrived. With clouds overhead we hunkered down for the night, making sure our tents wouldn't be vanquished by the force of the infamous rain.

DAY 1 - It rained. ALL DAY. Spent grocery shopping and boulder hopping.

DAY 2 - SUNNY! Psyche was high and the day's mission went something like this:
CLIMB EVERYTHING! I seriously have not climbed that much in my life! Most of the problems were easy but who cares, they were amazing. After a quick meal at the Howe Sound Brewery, we went back to our car (now converted into a kitchen), planned out the climbs we wanted to check out the next few days and sat back in awe of the chief now a reddish hue from the fishing lights on the bay.

DAY 3 - I woke up to rain thudding on my tent. Not cool. We bugged out in the car all day, watching Big Up Films and hoping that this wouldn't happen for the remainder of our trip. That afternoon Mike and I hiked around looking for boulders we wanted to try.

DAY 4 - Rain again. Decided to hike the Chief, which was a terrible idea as everything was super slick and the view at the top was terrible...

DAY 5 (Robin left for bigger and better things in Boulder, CO...), 6, 7, and 8 - Molded together into something that could only be described as a epic sending fiasco. After sending about 50 problems ranging from V0 to V10 , these were the stand-out favorites:

Encore Une Fois V11: Without a doubt one of the best problems I've ever tried. It's movement is insane and one of the major cruxes for me was learning how to say it correctly...  No send, but I will. Someday.

No Troblems V9/10: Grade aside, this is one of the coolest featured problems in the forest. From a perfect compression couple of moves to a roof sequence with perfect holds to a top out with the perfect hand jam, this problem is well: perfect! I thought I might die on the down climb though...

Mind-Bender Low V9: Compression problem on crimp rails, how could you go wrong? Only wish was that it was 10 moves longer. We met a family from Montreal at this problem - the 2 year old son shouting "ALLEZ" definently helped me get up the problem...

Trad Killer V4: My all time favorite climb in the forest. Don't know why but it got me so psyched to climb more. SO GOOD!

Teenage Lobotomy V6: H-H-Highball? 25 feet high, bad landing, amazing climb. Just wish I could have mustered up some courage to climb past the crux.

Minor Threat V6: Super aesthetic, almost doesn't look like granite? Super dynamic!

Probably the most important thing that happened to me on the trip was my motivation to climb changed. Up until now, all I wanted was to be the best - do the hardest possible moves and if it wasn't at my limit I just wasn't interested. I was grade chasing.
After climbing at Squamish; after meeting people from all over the world, of all different climbing abilities and ethical beliefs, I realized that in the broad scheme of things, being the best doesn't matter. For me, the only reason to climb hard is to open up more beautiful climbs that happen to be hard. Certainly, I still seek out problems at my limit but not at the cost of missing out on a four-star moderate. Of course, these are just thoughts from an ordinary climber.