Autumn Update

     Throughout this fall, we have had some great opportunities to get outside and climb. These days have been accompanied by some great weather and optimal rock conditions. My partner, Kerry, and I took advantage of a past three day weekends to take a trips to the New. Like I said previously, the weather was great; we encountered highs in the mid-forties, overnight lows in the mid-thirties, and overcast skies. We couldn't have asked for anything better!

     Our first day we figured we should try something new, so we went to the Meadow River and decided to hit up Area 51. The drive was fairly distant, along this old winding narrow road where we had to cross over --according the the guidebook-- an old "dilapidated train trussel." We were surprisingly welcomed by a short, five minute approach to the base of this tall, steep, white wall. We had one climb in mind, Made in The Shade, a four-star 12d in which Kerry sent quickly in two tries, and I made shorty after.

     Since the weekend we picked happened to be part of Bridge Day-- an annual tradition where BASE Jumpers from all over come to legally jump off the 900+ ft. New River Bridge-- we decided to stay on the northern part of the gorge since the bridge would be closed all day. We went to Endless Wall and warmed up on this classic 100 ft. four-star 11b, Discombobulated. Shortly after this we quickly parted directions and found two separate projects to work, Pocket Route and Dial 911, two classic, four-star 13a's. After Kerry set up her draws on Pocket Route, I hopped on Dial 911, flailing to the chains with beta from a guy we met the previous day. I figured this route would never go after this lousy first attempt. We returned on our third, and final day to hopefully cleanup what we had started. Although Kerry decided to clean her gear and save this route for next time I felt determined to give Dial 911 a final redpoint burn. I quickly cruised the easy beginning thirty feet and passed the first hard move. I continued past the middle crimping section making an occasional noise to reach the first crux where some powerful moves on these tiny delicate crimps through a dihedral mark a large deadpoint to a mailbox slot. I figured if I can make this low-percentage move then I might be able to man-up and finish through the upper crux. Well sure enough I stuck the slot and continued to this "halleluiah" rest jug. After regaining as much juice as I could I ran at the last crux move with everything I had. Making some ridiculous noises, I stuck the final moves and clipped the chains in relief.

I am currently planning for my upcoming trip to the Red River Gorge over Thanksgiving break and am praying for good weather. Though Kerry, my usual partner, won't be accompanying me, she will be crushing at the Pan-American Championships in Chile along with three of our other teammates, Kayla, Brandon, and Claire. Good-luck to you guys and represent!!!

New River Gorge Trip Sept.

 Kerry on Tobacco Road- 5.12b

So it's taken a while to post this, probably due to the increasing load of schoolwork (no that's a lie), or just pure laziness, but i think I'm gonna write about my most recent trip to the New River Gorge of West Virginia.
     My partner Kerry, and I left school Friday with high hopes and full Psyche as we began on our fairly short, five hour drive through the familiar, winding roads of Western Maryland and into West Virginia.
     We arrived at Chestnut Creek campground around 9:00 p.m. just in time to pitch tents in the dark. We decided to eat dinner at an Ihop about an hour prior to our arrival, so we didn't have to cook when we got there (a great idea! Great send fuel).
     Our first day was spent in Summersvile at the Coliseum, a beautiful overhanging wall of white rock overlooking the lake. Some classic routes we sent were Tobacco Road- 5.12b  and Reckless Abandoned- 5.12a. We also hopped on Apollo Reed, said the be one of the best 13's east of the Mississippi, which I fell at the redpoint crux at the 8th bolt. It was my second, and best attempt at the route ever. I was really psyched to return in the future and hopefully send. Along with the climbing, our first of three injuries occurred today where a few of the younger kids we were with, were throwing rocks into the lake and one of them struck one of the kids in the head. He was taked to the hospital and received two staples.
     The Endless Wall was in our sights for our second day. We focused on the Honeymooners and Snakebutress areas. I worked this super classic route, Jesus and Tequila, and also managed a flash of Sacrilege, another classic 5.12b. The Endless wall is a beautiful wall that sits atop the New River, and as the name hints, its endless!  Now, the second and third injuries happened today. One of the younger girls fell on the approach in and catching herself on her hands caused her to break her right wrist. She was also taken to the ER and was put into a cast. And last and definitely least, when backing into the parking space I side-swiped a tree with the front right quarter panel above the wheel and scuffed it up(unnoticeable after a brief buffing and whacking the two panels back together).
     Our last day was a half day of climbing due to the fact that we had school the next day and we needed to travel. We went to Kaymoor in Fayetteville and spent our time in The Hole. Super steep powerful climbing that even Kerry, a hardcore crimp enthusiast, was dying to climb. I worked Lactic Acid Bath a 12d and got 2 bolts higher than my previous burn last season. A lot of power-endurance will be necessary to redpoint this monster.  Kerry also onsighted this super sandbagged 12b, Yowsah. I wish I would've had time to get on that too.

So anyways, that was our trip and I'm super psyched to return and send some projects.
-Happy sending

A Few Thoughts from Tonight

Today while eating dinner I took a bite from a tart red apple, a staple for my family's meals during the autumn and winter seasons, and with that sour taste and the already yellowing leaves outside it's only a matter of time before fall comes along in full force; bringing with it cool temperatures perfect for climbing. And school. Starting for me in three two days and my first AP class awaiting, I feel that certain last-day-before-school-dreading. On top of that, once I finish the the small booklet of forms and tax garbage Scott C. handed me; I'll be off to some mild training followed by my first job, working at the best climbing gym in the country Earth Treks Climbing Centers which is arguably also my home.

Of course, it's not that I'm stressed out about all of this stuff that's happening, it's that I'm worried it will get in the way of my climbing during the prime seasons of the year. Earth Treks Climbing Team starts in a few months so I'll be training 3-4 days a week while trying to get out to local Maryland and Pennsylvanian crags on the weekends. I'm just not sure that will be able to happen with an increased workload and job responsibilities.

One thing I'm REALLY PSYCHED on though is the prospects of the Team taking a winter trip to Hueco Tanks, something I've wanted to do since I ever started climbing! Also there is a good chance of going out to Joe's Valley for a week during Spring Break and meeting a friend - a new resident to SLC -Mr. Alex LeBlanc. Potential outdoor trips like these really get me pumped to train more so than any competition ever could... Though I'm also excited to compete this up coming bouldering, after placing 23rd in last year's Youth ABS Nationals, and after that maybe the Youth SCS Nationals tooo?

Giving a burn on Black Lung V13

Roping. I've been climbing for two years now and always have been afraid of lead climbing - the falling, the fear of heights, the pumped feeling - everything! Because of that, I've been focused on bouldering the whole time. Recently though, I want to give leading another try. So far I'm getting more comfortable with falling, the heights, and, after getting to the top of a hard route, the pumped feeling is almost rewarding. Hopefully trips to the New and Red River Gorges ensue, those places look B-E-A-UTIFULLL!
 
Anyways, I thought it would be a good time for me to set personal climbing goals for the next year because I'm not too sure if I'll have time until this time next year!
 
Bouldering:
Climb V12/13 by this time one year from now.
Problems I want to do:
Joe's Valley-
Angler V2
Chips V7
Ghost King V11
Jitterbug Perfume V11
Mass Hysteria V11
Black Lung V13
Blackout V13
Hueco Tanks-
EVERYTHING!
 
Roping:
1. Lessen the fear of falling.
2. Go to the Red and the New.
3. Climb 12d/13a by this time next year.

All in all I think it's going to be a great year! It's like Alex Lowe said:
"The best climber in the world is the one who's having the most fun!"
 
 
 
 
 

A Different Kind of Climbing

The back seat of my truck turned into the stage for some pretty deep conversation during our nine hour journey to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. My friend Kerry and I got going on our opinions about the sport of climbing, and how this adverse lifestyle can differ amongst its participants.

Corey crushing Convicted, 5.13a, at the Motherlode, Red River Gorge Kentucky 

I was recently reading an Internet article, which expressed the opinions of outdoor climbers about indoor climbers. Because this article was relevant to our discussion, I passed it back to Kerry, who became instantly enraged after reading these arrogant, entitled climbers' opinions. They stated simply, that those who don’t climb on real rock aren't real rock climbers.

Do I agree with this statement?

 Absolutely not! Some of us aren’t as fortunate as others to live close to crags other than the local bouldering cave down on Fleet St., but does that mean we don’t deserve to be "legitimate" rock climbers? I believe that just because all of us "gym rats" can't afford to climb regularly at an outdoor scene doesn't mean we should be discredited as real rock climbers.

But I don’t completely disagree with this statement either.

Climbing is meant to be a natural relationship between the climber and rock. It is impossible to imitate this bond artificially in a gym, on plastic holds, but does that mean it shouldn’t be done? No. The climbing scene would be a fraction of its present-day size without these up and coming young guns, and the development of the sport would get closer and closer to becoming non-existent. Therefore I believe that the indoor scene should come second to the “real deal”, but not become disregarded entirely. I mean outdoor routes are out there for hundreds of thousands of years and for a few minutes, you can be a part of them —a part of the landscape— compared to an indoor problem which once it's taken down it will likely be forgotten forever. Committed indoor climbers do what they can to make it out, but sometimes this becomes virtually impossible. Ignorant outdoor climbers need to realize that most people don’t live on KY 11, for example, and can’t be right outside the gates of world-class climbing.

Climbing is what you make it, and if you're doing it for the right reasons, it doesn't matter what others think. You climb for yourself, and nobody else.